London, Again
London. I know people who really don’t like the grand dame. The weather can be beastly, the hotels mediocre, and the food dodgy. The people that serve you in the hotels, restaurants, and taxis have unpronounceable surnames and barely speak English. They drive on the wrong side of the road. Large buildings are referred to as “houses,” apartments are flats, and houses in the suburbs are called “estates.”
The hotel I’ve staid in these past years is just across from the Victoria and Albert on the edge of Chelsea and Knightsbridge near Harrod’s. It sports a fine location, has a nifty sounding name, and serves a “full English breakfast” (Denny’s Grand Slam breakfast just doesn’t seem to measure up). It also has tiny elevators (lifts) that don’t always work, indifferent beds and pillows (noticeable given the standards now being set by many of the Starwood hotels), tiny rooms, smaller televisions, very tall bathtubs, and difficult to use heating controls. Only this year did they get high speed internet access . . . wifi in the public
area for the not inconsiderable sum of ten pounds for twenty four hours (about twenty dollars).
Except for the cost of the wifi (it was worse in Paris), I love it all.
For my wife and me, London doesn’t begin until we’ve had afternoon tea at Harrod’s. No real reason, it’s just become a tradition. I have no sense of what the locals think of the place, particularly since it was bought by the nice Egyptian zillionaire whose son had the temerity to romance Prince Charles’ ex wife, but my guess is that us tourists like Harrod’s better. Either way, it’s always been well stocked with shoppers every time I’ve been there and this particular day was no exception.
Of the alternatives, we like sitting on the glassed-over balcony just off the Georgian Room. There at little tables we sip tea, graze on crustless quarter sandwiches and slather scones with clotted cream and strawberry jam. I always push myself away overstuffed and wondering why I don’t have English tea every afternoon.